Tuesday, January 10, 2012

O Vale da Paixão…………..Lídia Jorge

It is raining hard, water beating on the roof with ferocity, no one can hear anything, silently oh so silently, we feel Walter climbing the stairs, at the landing he removes his shoes, like a shadow flat on the wall, prepares to enter the room, the young girl inside looks forward to seeing him and we scream, No, No, it is dark, it is silent, why are you entering that room so furtively, Walter replies, to meet my daughter and you scream louder, no, no you cannot enter a young girl’s room at night, even if she is your daughter. Walter replies, I am not allowed to meet her, everyone guards me, I need to meet her just once, you see I disowned her a long time ago…..we realise that much like the Irmãos Dias we too have terrible thoughts of Walter.
All that Walter’s daughter knows about Walter is from gossip of others, gossip of the grandfather, Francisco Dias; gossip of the uncles, gossip of the aunt, gossip of the servants, the pact of silence, deep silence insisted by Maria Ema, no she admonishes Walter’s daughter, you are not to talk, not to call him father, you are his ‘niece’, do you understand says Maria Ema the mother of the girl.
Do you remember, asks Francisco Dias of his cronies, how Walter repaired that old carriage and roamed the countryside painting birds? Sketching birds, can you believe that? Selling them like a roadside vagabond, can you believe that a son of Francisco Dias would make money selling sketches? Francisco Dias would shout.
Do you know shrieks Alexandrina, all the while stabbing the potatoes brutally, that Walter got the nineteen year old Maria Ema Baptista pregnant, oh, oh screams Alexandrina all the while stabbing at the potatoes, do you know that one evening, the Baptistas, mother, father and Maria Ema came to the house and said, our daughter is pregnant, when Francisco Dias asked the age old question, how do you know it is my son, the Baptistas took out a folder with dozens of sketches of Maria Ema, the Baptistas turned around, without a word mounted their carriage pushing Maria Ema aside, no, no they did not allow her in, she ran, ran behind the carriage, crying, pleading for them to stop, hair in disarray, losing her hat, her punishment and humiliation started on that day.
Do you know, narrated Adelina the aunt hysterically, Francisco Dias, Paizinho, a man of principles wrote to Walter, you have to marry Maria Ema, no reply, dozens of letters, no reply, Francisco Dias then visited the Commandant, leave the Army to marry? Asked the incredulous Commandant, he is our best soldier. So Francisco Dias, hat in hand returned to Valmares, what to do? What to do? Marry her off to Custodio, his oldest son, his lame son who would never manage to marry otherwise, how brilliant, what a move to save the family honour….
And Custodio did marry Maria Ema, but Custodio loved Walter, loved his rebellious nature, loved that he did everything that he Custodio would never be able to do with his lame leg. Custodio was there to protect when Walter defied his father and refused to cart manure for their vast fields, Custodio was there to unyoke the mule whenever Walter returned from his long trips, sketching birds? Who knows? Custodio just loved Walter.
And Walter’s daughter collected her material of Walter, thread by thread, skein by skein, should she keep this thread, maybe, should she snip that one, yes. Yes Walter’s daughter wove her own fabric of Walter in her mind. But in the huge deep cupboard in her room, where she had always slept alone even when tiny, Walter’s daughter had his uniform, rough and scratchy but so comforting when things got lonely. When scared of the dark, as she often was, hidden between the mattresses Walter’s daughter had his Smith revolver, it protected her, she had figured out long ago how to arm and disarm it, the revolver kept the monsters of the dark at bay.
Actually on one of his visits home, when his brothers were trying to pay off Walter, so that he would never return to Valmares, Walter had flung a huge wad of money and the revolver on the table. Oh how everyone in the family wanted him to leave, leave they said, go said the father, die please die hoped Francisco Dias silently.
And then strangely, like thieves in the night, os Irmãos Dias started leaving Valmares, spreading all over the world, much like Walter, doing strange back breaking jobs in odd places, Caracas, Vancouver, where are these places? Why is it so cold there? Why is it so hot and dusty there? And most of all why have they squandered their inheritance for such menial tasks? A son of Francisco Dias herding and milking cows? A son of Francisco Dias a miner deep in the bowels of a mine covered in black dust wearing a miner’s hat? A son of Francisco Dias dismantling wooden houses? A son of Francisco Dias running after wagons? What sort of jobs were these? Come back, come back he wrote endless letters, please come back, please please come back he pleaded, but the only one who showed signs of returning was Walter, Walter is returning, no, no, let him die, everything is in a mess here in Valmares, don’t come back Walter, once lush fields lie fallow, olive trees not pruned for ages, cattle dying, your mule long dead. No Walter do not come this is not a place for you, come back, come back please come back he wrote to the Irmãos Dias, all pieces, all threads, all skeins for Walter’s daughter fabric of Walter.
And Walter returns, why? Everyone in a tizzy, Maria Ema dressing and pursing her skilfully painted mouth in a cupids bow, don’t speak, please don’t speak; Walter’s daughter has to collaborate with her mother, the pact of silence. Days of wonder, days of laughter, Custodio’s sons in wonder at the speed at which tio Walter sketches his birds, do one more tio Walter, just one more please, go to bed says Maria Ema their mother…and the rain, rain beating ferociously on the roof, no one can hear a thing……… Maria Ema can take it no longer; the strain is much too much, Walter, Walter, Walter.
And then Walter leaves knowing he will never return, come with me he says to Walter’s daughter, no, no she replies silently.
Come back, come back, writes Francisco Dias to the Irmãos Dias, endless letters, please come back, please please come back he pleads, how can we? write the Irmãos Dias, we have businesses to attend to, they write, dairies, sawmills, real estate, travel agencies, os Irmãos Dias have now moved on, they are respected members of society in those far away countries……but something is bringing them down, dragging them down in squelchy mud, ruining their reputation for which they had worked so hard, so very hard…Walter deep in debt, Walter defrauding his business partners, Walter closing his office, opening another one elsewhere, Walter impregnating a Polish girl, Walter fleeing to Brazil, running to Caracas, letters pouring from os Irmãos Dias, most importantly the terrible way the Soldier’s Blanket has been put to use, women tumbling all over it, the Soldier’s Blanket filthy, smeared, stained, deeply ingrained with Walter’s sins, is it any way to treat a Soldier’s Blanket , a Soldier’s Blanket is the Symbol of a Nation, a deluge of letters driving Francisco Dias to a nervous breakdown. And then terrible, terrible accusations, oh Custodio you are such a fool, so innocent, an affair was going on right under your nose, Maria Ema and Walter of course, you just stayed looking on, sad. Do you know that Walter even threw his own daughter on the Soldier’s Blanket, visited her one night when it was raining so very heavily, oh the scandal, oh the horror, tell us the truth Custodio, the truth, we have a right to know. And Walter's daughter is filled with anger, how could he, how could have told them about his one and only visit to her room. But then maybe, he could have just said, you know I just wanted to be near her, my daughter, and I was guarded, prevented from talking to her, my daughter who I had seen as a toddler. Filled with anger Walter’s daughter decides to confront him, collects, collects and collects information about Walter, writes terrible stories about Walter, goes to meet Walter, surprises him, confronts him only to realise that she loves him deeply, it was always him, always her only comfort when everything was lonely and bleak, his army coat, his revolver were her security against a hostile world.
Walter’s daughter, why don’t you have a name like everyone else does, a name is the most common thing and one’s most sacred possession, even the poorest of the poor have a name Walter’s daughter; yes, you do not have a name, because nobody respects you, you once said to yourself, if had I pointed the Smith at and killed Maria Ema, everyone would have pounced on me, if I had shot Maria Ema’s sons, they would have killed me, but if I point the revolver at Walter’s daughter and kill her no one will even know, they will let my body rot. Who would have allowed a little girl to keep a loaded revolver hidden below the mattress? Yes Walter’s daughter you were an accident, and like accidents unwanted, Maria Ema or her mother should have gotten rid of you in time and then you would have saved the house of Francisco Dias a great deal of embarrassment.
Strangely but, Walter’s daughter, you are the only one who knows how to look after the land that os Irmãos Dias abandoned, you are the only one who can recognise agricultural implements even in the deep of the night just by touching them as you did when you found the right spade to dig a deep hole for Walter’s blanket, the Soldier’s Blanket which was his legacy to you when he died, a clean, sweet smelling blanket that came to you passing through a hundred countries, you buried the Soldier’s Blanket much as one buries her own father with love and respect.

Friday, December 30, 2011

Are you ready for Christmas and New Year ?

Walking past my neighbour’s house, I caught her sunning herself and asked the expected question that everyone asks during Christmas season
‘Are you ready for Christmas?’ And she turned to me with toss of her head, replied disdainfully
‘I prefer to be ready on the inside’. Now, not being a very polite person, I could have said, ‘Oh, oh, you are one of those people who loves sexy, silk lingerie uhmm’ But I did not say this, for I knew what she meant, she felt that we were mere materialistic mortals, not knowing, nor aware of God’s plan for us, wasting time and energy on earthly things such as paper stars and Christmas sweets, but I love paper stars and Christmas sweets; and anyway how does one get ‘ready for Christmas on the inside?’
When Luiza a widow, mother of three who works from morning to night, takes a break to cook a nice lunch of chicken and pulao for her three children and then they all shout and scream over which is the best colour for their paper star, isn’t that a prayer?
When Catarina, who has been working every day with no break, decides that come what may, she has to make some Christmas sweets for her children and spends the entire night with her good pal Rosa, a widow who has no kids of her own but enjoys everyone’s kids, just filling and frying nevreos till they are covered with flour and have blisters all over their hands, isn’t that a prayer?
How you wonder what went on in Caravaggio’s mind when he painted ‘The Incredulity of Saint Thomas’, Christ with an expression of gentility when Saint Thomas literally pokes him in his side and you really want to scream out, ‘Watch out buddy that hurts’, how many long hours must Caravaggio have worked, his mind only on how best to convey The Incredulity of Saint Thomas, not a stroke out of place, not one wrinkle on Saint Thomas’ forehead misplaced, such patience, although Caravaggio was said to be a wild man, could we not consider Caravaggio’s paintings an act of prayer?
And what is Klaus Meine thinking of when he with his ever so beautiful voice, sings his Ave Maria to the poorest of the poor, a shanty of blacks who are so poor, so poor that they do not even have a tiny chapel to pray to the Blessed Virgin and she says ‘You are on the top of the Hill, you are the closest to me, you have the sky studded with a thousand stars covering you like a mantle, why do you need a chapel?. And all the while Klaus Meine pleads and narrates the suffering of the blacks to you, could so much love and passion not be a prayer?
We pray all the time, all the time, just by doing what we do best…..
May we have a thousand prayers in the coming year…..

Wednesday, December 21, 2011

What do you do when Baby Jesus comes to your neighbourhood much in advance of Christmas?

What do you do when Baby Jesus comes to your neighbourhood much in advance of Christmas?
We welcome her of course, which is what we have done……with open arms.
Some years back Nazareth and Beatriz got married, as everyone, they waited for a baby, which took time in coming because Beatriz was so very ill, trips to the hospital, doctors and endless drugs but Beatriz did not feel any better, besides there was the endless suffering and frustration of not having a baby to hold in her arms. Nazareth was not there to console her when those endless tongues started wagging?
Why did he marry her? Could he not see she was ill, even on her wedding day….. the torture went on and on.
Nazareth so far away trying to earn a nice living for his family.
Oh! what days of loneliness, pain and the endless wait for the baby, but Beatriz decided; no painful treatments, she already had so much medication that she did not want any more drugs, nor she did want to meet any more doctors. Surrogacy? That option was not even considered by Nazareth and Beatriz…..
And then one fine glorious day Caris burst on the scene…….Baby clothes on the clothesline, we peeped out,
What was happening? Was it a relative visiting?
But no, Caris’ grandmother said we have a baby!
What excitement, we rushed over and there was Caris in her little bed, plump cheeks like delicious cupcakes and her hair tiny, tiny curls like a zillion springs, oh the smell of milk and baby powder….we just inhaled it deeply, heaven.
Where have you come from darling? Nobody cares
No longer will Beatriz be the woman who has no children…..she is a mother who has sleepless nights, worries about immunization and lovely clothes for Caris who rests softly in her arms.
And Nazareth, the proud father who has come for Christmas with special permission from his employer, who can resist a Baby? Walking tall and proud with Caris perched, cooing on his shoulder.
We the willing slaves following every look, every move Caris makes. ‘Oh she is clapping, is she?’’ No, no’ says the very proud grandmother, ‘she is shooing away the monkeys’ Ohhh we breathe in
And so we have our very own Baby Jesus, our miracle child…..for who knows in what guise He will come to us….

Sunday, December 11, 2011

Amor de Perdição.........Camilo Castelo Branco

Amor de Perdição, written by Camilo Castelo Branco in 1861, follows the pattern of all tragedies, passionate love stories, amazing love stories where lovers have absolutely lost all sense of reality; the lovers surmount dreadful obstacles just to be with their loved ones, to achieve happiness in their complex love. Most of the times, this quest for happiness is extremely frustrating; even when together the lovers endure such suffering that you wonder is it worth it?
Camilo Castelo Branco wrote this love story in the space of a fortnight, when he was in prison, facing charges of adultery. Amor de Perdição a tragedy has all the ingredients that turn it into a perpetual heart-rending story with teachers moaning ‘Ai que lindo’, ‘Ai que lindo’ at suitable moments.
Most tragedies focus on the impossible love of two people; Amor de Perdição is no exception it pursues this well trodden path.
Simão Botelho falls passionately in love with Teresa de Albuquerque, both belong to aristocratic families who live in Viseu but all is not roses for the these two families, in fact, the Albuquerques and the Botelhos, detest each other intensely. Why? It all started when Domingos Botelho, a judge passed a judgement against Tadeu de Albuquerque, after that there was no looking back, they hated each other with vehemence. One day as luck would have it, Teresa de Albuquerque was taking a breath of clean, fresh Viseu air at her window; across the narrow street she sees the strapping figure of Simão Botelho, breathing the very same air, could there have been a bigger sign from above.
Passionate love ensues, such long conversations, back and forth, across the narrow street, but the Viseu wind is treacherous, one fine day someone heard these passionate sweet nothings as the wind carried them. All Hell breaks loose. Domingos Botelho cannot believe his son has fallen for that skinny fifteen year old Albuquerque girl, daughter of his sworn enemy. ‘You could do better than that, you idiot’ he says. Domingos Botelho forgets his aristocracy when he yells with his powerful pair of lungs. ‘Tadeu de Albuquerque KEEP YOUR DAUGHTER LOCKED, IF I CATCH HER TALKING TO MY SON I WILL …I WILL, …..words failed him he could not imagine what he would do.
Tadeu de Albuquerque, was smart, he kept his mouth shut, when all he wanted to do was to wring Simão’s neck. Of course I too would want to wring Simão’s neck, that useless lout did nothing, drank, gambled and caused endless trouble for his family. Tadeu de Albuquerque called for his nephew, Baltasar, who was supposed to marry Teresa. Pssst said Tadeu de Albuquerque, ‘you better get here as fast as you can, Teresa loves the guy across the street’, ‘my inheritance’ thinks the chivalrous Baltasar.
Domingos Botelho dispatches Simão to Coimbra, here Simão transforms himself into a model student, all because of Teresa, who writes reams of letters to him. In the meantime, Baltasar does try to win Teresa back, but Teresa stands straight, looks him in the eye and says ‘I love someone else.’ Poor Baltasar in his misguided fashion tries and tries to explain how terrible Simão is. Baltasar, Baltasar my dear could you not see that Teresa is dreadfully in ‘love’ with this guy. Nothing works in the Albuquerque household, no amount of cajoling, bribes; even a lovely party thrown in so that Teresa ‘could forget the lover’ and marry her suitor Baltasar, but NO! Teresa will marry only Simão, Simão, Simão. Fortitude says our Professora, look at the young girl; she knew her mind, forgetting that Teresa had known no other men.
‘Convent’, says Tadeu de Albuquerque, ‘Convent is what is best for you’, pssst thinks maybe she can learn some excellent ‘doçaria conventual’ he had a sweet tooth you see. ‘If that is what you want for me, so be it’ says the dutiful daughter, Fortitude says our Professora wiping a tear from her eye.
Letters to Simão, who like a rabid bull, paces his room.
DO NOT DO ANYTHING RASH SIMÃO, KEEP COOL
SAVE ME! SAVE ME!! I CANNOT STAY HERE ANYMORE
So when Teresa is being transferred from one Convent to another, Simão rushes to her rescue, seeing the unfortunate Baltasar in his way shoots him.
Simão, tells the Police, ‘I have committed this crime, do what you will, I seek no pardon, I desire no help, nor do I desire any money from ANYONE. Psssst by then Simão had acquired a willing slave to do everything for him, procure food for him, wash his clothes and even spend her savings on him, a besotted creature so in love with him knowing deep in her heart that her love would never be repaid, not even acknowledged, for she came from humble, humble origins, daughter of the village blacksmith, Mariana the selfless soul.
Like many rich people, with loads of influence, Simão is not convicted, rather the thug is sent to us here in India so that he can start a new life. It is curtains for the passionate love, Mariana rejoices as she accompanies Simão to the land of heat and dust, he is all mine she thinks, but lovers are lovers and as Teresa waves out a tiny scrap of embroidered linen to Simão from the terrace of the Convent, she collapses O Simão, Simão meu amor she weeps and her soul lifts effortlessly to heaven, O que tragédia weeps our very own Professora, taken up by her own thoughts of love and romance. Simão, gets to know of the terrible but unavoidable occurrence, gets a high fever and dies. And Mariana what of Mariana the selfless soul? Not being able to bear the terrible tragedy, Mariana, flings herself into the sea, in her hands the packet of letters…….

On the face of it we have a tragedy like so many others but is this all that an erudite author like Camilo Castelo Branco wants to put forward? To not delve deeper into this book beyond the sentimental story, beyond the ‘ai que lindo’ is in my opinion a greater tragedy.
Camilo Castelo Branco starts by emphasising the fact this is autobiographical story, Simon was a relative of the family. He goes to great lengths to tell us about how he came to know the story, backed by dates and historical facts, he narrates about a stay at an aunt’s house when he was orphaned at ten.
What Castelo Branco really wants to convey is the environment of the aristocracy during the XVIII and XIX centuries. Teresa takes great pains to explain how empty and full of vice life in Convents really is. In this context the tragic story takes on a different hue, it becomes a sort of a compendium of how aristocracy behaved in the XVIII and XIX Centuries.
We are shown how aristocracy behaved in villages how disparagingly city aristocracy treated village aristocracy.
We realise how much reputation and family traditions were meant to be, much above such mundane sentiments as love. The tragic consequences of what happens when ‘love’ takes precedence over age old family traditions and sentiments, Simão turns into a criminal and dies of unexplained fever, Teresa cloistered in a convent dies because she just refuses to live, Mariana a sensible girl goes mad when she falls in love with Simão and ultimately commits suicide.
Strangely Castelo Branco writes
‘Os poetas cansam-nos a paciência a falarem do amor da mulher aos quinze anos, como paixão perigosa, única e inflexível. Alguns prosadores de romances dizem o mesmo. Enganam-se ambos. O amor aos quinze anos é uma brincadeira; é a última manifestação do amor às bonecas [...]. (p.26)’
Strangely in our hurry and myopic vision we have catalogued Amor de Perdição as just another tragic love story, we refuse to waste our time looking beyond the sentimentalism and finding the true essence of this book and that is the tragedy.

Sunday, November 20, 2011

Three Years, Eight Months and Eleven Days, the Hell Cambodia went through..

When you travel, you see so much, experience much more, sometimes there are experiences locked in your heart that have to be shared, these haunt you, this is one of these experiences.
What do you expect,when you get to Cambodia? Angkor Wat, of course. Thousands of tourists pour into Cambodia every year to see the majestic Angkor Wat Complex. But Cambodia is not just The Khmer Empire with its temple complex at Angkor Wat. Cambodia nurses a deep, dark secret, which the people of Cambodia, the Khmers, insist on sharing with every tourist who visits their peaceful country.
A bit of history, we leave the turbulent times of long ago and move a little closer to our times. Between 1969 and 1973, as we know the United States of America fought a senseless war against Communism in Vietnam. United States Armed Forces bombed and briefly occupied Cambodia in an effort to disrupt the Viet Cong and the Khmer Rouge. Some two million Cambodians were caught in this absurd war and became refugees. Estimates of the number of Cambodians killed during these bombing campaigns vary widely, as do observations of the effects of the bombings.
As the Vietnam War ended, as was expected Cambodia faced severe famine in 1975. Most of its draft animals destroyed, rice planting for the next harvest had to be done by the hard manual labour of an already seriously malnourished people. As if that was not enough, as if the Khmers had not had enough of death, torment, starvation, the Khmer Rouge reached Phnom Penh and took power in 1975, led by Pol Pot.
If you wanted indescribable hell, Cambodia was the place to go during the Pol Pot Regime.
Pol Pot changed the official name of the country to Democratic Kampuchea. He and his aides forcibly evicted entire cities, sent people on forced marches to work on rural projects. Pol Pot attempted to rebuild the country's agriculture on the model of the 11th century. Everything Western was discarded; this included Western medicine, destruction of temples and libraries. At least two million Cambodians, out of a total population of 8 million, died from executions, overwork, starvation and disease.
And now, ladies and gentlemen,we enter Tuol Sleng.
Tuol Sleng was a high school, the Chao Ponhea Yat High School, here there was laughter, light and happy banter, children running everywhere, it was a happy place, as is any school. It was a school where mothers waited for their kids at the end of the day and asked them ‘How was your day today’ or would say to them ‘I have cooked something special for you’, or the child would say 'Do you know how mean that teacher is?
Overnight the Chao Ponhea Yat High School turned into Security Prison 21 (S-21).
Overnight the classrooms with black and yellow patterned tiles, where happy children had studied and played were converted into torture chambers, mass cells. The benches and chairs disappeared; we now have long iron bars to which prisoners were shackled. The shackles were fixed to alternating bars; or were fixed to the floor.
No more teachers and students reading out their lessons, reciting poetry or memorizing tables. The prisoners slept with their heads in opposite directions, on the floor without mats, mosquito nets, or blankets.
No more light hearted banter, no more silly quarrels, the shackled prisoners were forbidden to talk to each other.
Life in the prison followed a routine, much like the schoolchildren followed their own routine.
A day in the prison began at 4:30 a.m. when prisoners were ordered to strip for inspection. The guards checked to see if the shackles were slack, or if the prisoners had hidden objects they could use to commit suicide. Over the years, several prisoners had managed to kill themselves, so the guards were very careful with the shackles and the cells. The prisoners received four small spoonfuls of rice porridge and a watery soup of leaves twice a day. Drinking water without asking the guards for permission resulted in serious beatings. The inmates were hosed down every four days. The prison had very strict regulations, and severe beatings were inflicted on any prisoner who tried to disobey. Almost every action had to be approved by one of the prison's guards.
At Tuol Sleng commonplace objects changed into killer objects, you could die anywhere…
At Tuol Sleng, the ordinary boundary wall was no longer just a simple wall, it had rows upon rows of barbed wire always electrified....
At Tuol Sleng, a simple iron bed was not something where you slept after a hard day's labour, you could use it to shackle prisoners, and maybe if you felt like it you could slit their throats with a curved knife, that also can be used to to harvest coconuts......
At Tuol Sleng, the large yellow tiled classrooms, so happy and cheerful could be converted into box sized cells, where prisoners awaiting torture could be shackled....
At Tuol Sleng, the blackboard could be used to write the roll call of the cell inmates......
At Tuol Sleng, water boarding meant a sloping wooden piece,prisoners could be shackled and water from a blue watering can poured over their faces until they ‘confessed’.....
At Tuol Sleng, the pictures of women and men you see, were not those of merit students, about to receive prizes, they were of prisoners, who have given up hope, eyes vacant already dead.....
And the baby in his mother’s arms would never know what it is to crawl on the floor chasing his cat....
Welcome to the world of Pol Pot, where ordinary everyday objects take on different meaning and function.
Outside on a huge board, there are the rules for the inmates, written in Khmer and translated into French and English
1. You must answer accordingly to my question. Don’t turn them away.
2. Don’t try to hide the facts by making pretexts this and that; you are strictly prohibited to contest me.
3. Don’t be a fool for you are a chap who dares to thwart the revolution.
4. You must immediately answer my questions without wasting time to reflect.
5. Don’t tell me either about your immoralities or the essence of the revolution.
6. While getting lashes or electrification you must not cry at all.
7. Do nothing, sit still and wait for my orders. If there is no order, keep quiet. When I ask you to do something, you must do it right away without protesting.
8. Don’t make pretext about Kampuchea Krom in order to hide your secret or traitor.
9. If you don’t follow all the above rules, you shall get many lashes of electric wire.
10. If you disobey any point of my regulations you shall get either ten lashes or five shocks of electric discharge.

I read the rules, but I read and reread Rule 6
6. While getting lashes or electrification you must not cry at all.
I cannot stop reading this rule. My son pulls me away gently.....

I sit on a stone seat under a frangipani tree, shedding its flowers gently on 14 graves. These were the graves of the prisoners found by the liberating Vietnamese Army, their throats slit. One of them a woman.
I pray, I do not know for what, Tuol Sleng teaches you to pray without words to any God who might hear your prayer.
For Three Years, Eight Months and Eleven Days the Cambodians prayed……..

Tuesday, November 15, 2011

A Mulher que Acreditava Ser Presidente dos Estados Unidos......João Botelho

A beautifully dressed woman, Alexandra Lencastre, sweeps the steps of a long winding staircase, collects paper and some other garbage neatly in piles ready to be disposed off, just then a gust of wind scatters the papers all around, so tired, so very tired is she of this monotonous work…. But she is a Woman of Substance, not to be outdone, she realises that the only way out of this drudgery and misery is to dream, to dream big and where do all big dreams lead?
America of course, America the proverbial land of milk and honey…
And what can be the biggest dream you can dream of in the United States of America?
To be the Woman President of course, slowly her dream takes shape, her tiny house when seen from outside, assumes enormous proportions when viewed on the inside, surely it is a mirror image of White house? Yes, it is; there is of course the Oval Office where she as the President takes all her important decisions. You do not expect the Woman President to operate on her own do you? She has her inner core of advisers as well as other women who help her run this Office of prestige, there is even the President of the Society of Dead Languages, who only speaks in Latin.
The Woman President can never, ever be shabbily dressed. No chance, she and her coterie of dear friends, who obey her implicitly, have lovely sessions getting their hair done, manicures and pedicures, facials thrown in regularly.
As the Woman President, she has to give interviews to magazines, not to Time or Newsweek, that’s passé my dears, it is Vogue that’s de rigueur. Of course, there are plans and political discussions, where every problem is solved by the annihilation or bombardment of the enemy or foe.
Any resemblance to American foreign policy is to be taken dismissively.
As expected all good things have something not quite so right, in this case the Woman President in addition to juggling problems requiring utmost strategy, (pssst the Woman President has serious money problems)planning meetings, giving interviews to magazines or other organizations, appearing at functions or social events, has a thorn constantly piercing her side, her Bizarre Mother. The Bizarre Mother ensconced comfortably in one of the huge rooms in the White House, grumbles continuously, runs huge bills buying the most expensive hot house flowers, has a stash of cannabis that she smokes gleefully when the Woman President is busy with her myriad duties, teaches the First Daughters or the First Twins all manner of insalubrious stuff. If the First Mother was not bad enough, the Woman President’s Husband, the First Gentleman, spends his time sleeping in another part of White House, snoring, drooling all over the pristine bed sheets, getting very drunk, truly acting like a swine, for want of a better word. When the Woman President is busy, as she is most of the time, he is up and prowling searching for women and sex. No they do not share a room, much less a bed, would you fancy such a lout in your bed? No, never.
So now you can understand with great insight what problems beset People in High Places?
As in a flash, the Woman President, decides to honour the women of the world by celebrating her 37th Birthday on a colossal scale. Why her Birthday you ask? Oh, come now, who better to represent the entire Womanhood, than the Woman President of America? Preparations are in full swing, crates of Coca-Cola, huge quantities of hamburgers, pizzas arrive in truckloads, which the loyal platoon of servants accommodate in huge warehouses.
Any resemblance to American food habits is to be taken frivolously.
Meanwhile, her most loyal inner core of friends works tirelessly arranging the gigantic party, the strident band rehearses continuously, dressed in the colours of the American flag. Masses and masses of flowers are arranged everywhere. Whenever the Woman President, feels a panic attack coming on, she has her Secretary of State a very patient woman, ready to help shoulder the onerous burden resting on the Woman President’s shoulders.
Later we see a great multitude of women enjoying the enormous party in the company of the Woman President and her core group, the First Mother and the First Daughters. No the husband has not been invited. It is Women’s Power.
Is this the story of a Woman, who has dreams like women all over the world?
Is it a spoof on the American way of life?
I think it is a mélange of dreams, life, aspirations, joys and sorrows, with a soupcon of the American way of life.
But do not take my word for it, see the movie and do write and tell us what you think of this exceedingly humorous film.

Cast : Alexandra Lencastre, Rita Blanco, Laura Soveral, Helena Vieira, Suzana Borges, Paula Guedes, São José Correia, Patrícia Guerreiro, Conchita Sacchetti, Io Apolloni, Adelaide João, Mrs. Meng, Lia Gama, Lídia Franco, Márcia Breia

Thursday, November 10, 2011

Salt panning any takers?

Yes, even though it is hard to believe I was enjoying a lovely meal of sole fish in a very nice sauce, but here was Prof. Delfim hurrying me as though the devil was on his heels, ‘Sonia não perca tempo! Devemos estar na Ria as duas!’ Why did I choose to sit opposite him where he could eye my every move? ‘Sonia, pode levar a sua maça’ I slipped my maça into my bag, I always slipped those lovely fruits in my bag, why tell him that, so I looked suitably horrified, an air of ‘How could you expect me to do that!’
We hurried past the Museum, plunged into the alley at the side, down past a Confeitaria selling all manner of delicacies, yes, ovos-moles and Bolo Rei rich in spices and candied fruit. Why oh why was I wearing trendy, or so I thought, flip-flops, summer, but flip-flops on cobbled streets? Whilst the well toned body of Professor sped without much effort over those killer cobbles, I struggled, ‘Estas cansada Sonia, mais um pouquinho, vocês, Alexandre, Bosco apressem, quem falta?’ And we all knew the answer…….poor Dhruv, his misfortune of being the roommate of the most elusive hottie, his arms spread out in resignation, Rahul!
The Language department at the University believed we should learn something of the culture of Portugal too, an idea we wholeheartedly agreed to, who in his right mind would want to be doing Conjutivo Imperativo on a hot summer’s day after a good meal?
So here we were boarding a very colourful bus, a hop on, hop off for a trip around Aveiro and Ílhavo.
The traditional occupation of Aveiro, years back when the world was a simpler place to live in, had been salt panning, but now salt panning is completely on the decline, however the University of Aveiro conducts studies on salt panning and we passed a series of salt pans with heaps of white crystalline salt. Sara who was next to me jolted me out of a pleasant dream, ‘Sonia, Sonia veja sal’ and I full of pleasant dreams thought, ‘Mitache agor’- Salinas why the hell should I wake up just to see ‘Mitache agor’- Salinas, my route to Panjim is via Agassaim which used to be the home of ‘Mitache agor’- Salinas. My sleep had just been kicking in, you know that very pleasant zone of semi consciousness, between wakefulness and sleep, no I was not at all pleased that Sara had woken me up.
But on another trip we did visit the Salinas and had the very ebullient, Sr. João showing us around, salt panning is a back breaking, arduous work, who in the right mind would want to walk around in the hot sun, ankle deep in salt water, scratches and wounds on the feet killing you, all that salt pouring in those wounds, but to Sr. João it is a labour of love. He explained that salt panning was not one of the most desirable professions which resulted in the neglect of the salinas, as a result of this neglect, fresh water had inundated the salinas making them unfit for salt extraction. The salinas however, are a different world altogether, peace and the silence washes over you, the light has a different quality to it, or was I letting my imagination get the better of me? Tiny flowering plants with tinier flowers beckon you, birds chirping warning other tiny denizens of this strange world that intruders are approaching. However they had a welcome visitor, a great pal, a huge slobbering Labrador who accompanied by his owners visited the salinas regularly. To the Labrador this was his park, he gambolled in the fresh hay, he wished the workers good morning, he barked from sheer joy, generally very happy that there was such lovely place in the world.
Sr João was a good guide as well as extremely business savvy, whilst we rested under a gnarled fig tree, in Portugal the trees show a certain class befitting their age, they are twisted and gnarled; they want you to see that they have lived and continue to live their lives even when times are not so pleasant, Sr. João talked to us about the salinas and his conversation took us to the coast of Holland and Newfoundland, where in his opinion, cod was not cured as it should be, it was raw, it did not spring back as it should, which it only does as when cured by the Portuguese of yore. He really knew so very much, Dhruv was fascinated by his rapid fire talk. Man of salt that he was he had diversified into soaps. He had homemade soaps with salt as the base, salt is an exfoliant, so very intelligently he was marketing this property as well, in addition to the one we all know about, food. He had pretty jute bags with premium salt also called flor de Sal, packed in them and these were tied with a neat, little straw bit. Talk of business.
My mind went back to the salt pans of Agassaim, what did I know about our very own Mitache agor? All that I knew about salt in Goa is the trucks passing by and hoarse voiced women yelling; Mit, mit and more mit. Will I visit a mitacho agor, I doubt, we do these things elsewhere but never at home. Enfim……