Did you think that all that Nuns did
was pray?
The Abbess D. Isabel
Nascimento was concerned.
As the Abbess of the prestigious
Real Mosteiro de Santa Clara de Vila do Conde she had much to do, much to worry
about.
Looking over the broad
expanse of the kitchen gardens which were magnificent, she cast her mind back
to when she had joined the Convent at seventeen.
She smiled at the
memory, how sad she had been, she had never wanted to join the Cloister. Who
would have wanted to relinquish freedom for these walls?
Fate she decided had
not dealt her a good hand; she was plain, very intelligent but plain, as her
shrewd Father put it to her,
‘Isabel you are intelligent but men like to
marry meek and beautiful girls’.
So Convent it was for
her Isabel, her Father had paid a large dowry and as he put it with a wry laugh,
‘Even to marry Jesus
you need a Dowry. One would have thought that after all His preaching; Jesus would
not mind a poor bride!’
Of course she had
never wanted to be a Bride of Christ; she had wanted a man of flesh, blood
coursing through his veins, a man who would keep her warm during those long
winter nights.
But she was a woman of
principles; she would not neglect her duties, she would make her life a
success. And she had done just that, through sheer determination and astuteness
she was now the Abbess of the Real Mosteiro de Santa Clara.
She sometimes she lacked
the patience needed to console young girls who joined the Convent sometimes
forced by their parents, sometimes a jilted young girl.
Now that young girl Teresa
pampered and spoiled by her doting old father. The Abbess knew Teresa had lost
her mother and was very lonely and sad, now she imagined herself in love with
that lout Simão.
The Abbess loathed
Teresa when she wept, when she yearned for ‘her’ Simão.
However, her astute
mind never forgot that Teresa was rich, very rich indeed, the only pampered daughter
of an old father. It was for this reason alone that the Abbess tolerated her
weeping.
Look at that other
girl, thought the Abbess, weeding the garden. The Abbess admired this girl; she
had pluck, Joanna the daughter of the King of Portugal. The Abbess could never
figure out Joanna. She never displayed her inner turmoil.
Was she here of her
own free will as the King had explained to the Abbess?
Or was it that Joana
like the Abbess herself, had failed to find a husband?
Whatever the reason,
Joanna never let her feelings show; she was calm, very hard working and had
wonderful sense of humor too.
But the Abbess was not
thinking of the girls, their virtues or their failings. She was worried about the
terrible waste in the kitchen.
The Abbess loved good
food, loved celebrating all feasts, but wasting anything was not tolerated. The
other Nuns called her the ‘Miser’, ‘the Plebeian’.
The Aristocratic Nuns
were aware that the Abbess was a Plebeian; that she came from the Trader Class,
that she had brought a fabulous dowry. But,
they also knew her to be a very astute business person, just like her Trader
Papa.
‘Is she not the person who takes our dowries
and lends it at high rates of interest?’ the Aristocrats mumbled
‘And that allows us to
have a good life,’ retorted the other Nuns.
Everyone knew that the
convent produced hundreds of eggs; hundreds of egg whites were sold to clarify wines,
egg whites were also used for preparing the hosts used in the Holy Mass,
besides the nun’s habits were starched with egg whites. Oh yes, egg whites were
an extremely lucrative business for the Abbey.
But what worried the
Abbess dreadfully, were the hundreds of egg yolks going waste. The pigs were
fed these egg yolks, but they ate a lot of kitchen scraps and did not need such
rich food.
‘How do I solve this terrible waste?’ ‘Oh how
do I tackle this immense problem worried the Abbess... ‘
The Abbess was a woman
of action.
‘A meeting…’ ‘Ideas,
fresh ideas not musty well worn out practices’.
‘What can be done with
these hundreds of yolks?’
‘Sister Ursula, do
not… please do not tell me we are feeding the pigs with them.’
The discussion went
back and forth.
Suddenly, when
everyone least expected it, Teresa said in a quavering voice.
‘Why don’t we cook
these yolks with sugar?’
The Abbess was
thunderstruck, here was Teresa actually thinking of something else besides that
oaf Simão.
‘Tell us more, Teresa,
tell us more’ she urged.
It turned out that the
one thing Teresa actually liked was cooking.
It was then decided to
make a ‘Doçe-de-ovos’, a simple dessert, all you did was cook the yolks in
sugar. The nuns were not ignorant about sweets and desserts, but they had
always used honey as a sweetener. Since the XV Century however, sugar was
abundant in Portugal, its uses versatile. Convents were rich and could afford
large quantities of sugar.
What excitement
pervaded the Abbey, the kitchen smelled delicious, what discussions, so much laughter. But nothing was as simple as they had
thought; sugar although adaptable was tricky, it had its drawbacks. It charred and
blackened at the slightest provocation.
A long time later, three
basic recipes were formulated, the ‘core’ of the ‘doçaria conventual .’ Ovos-moles,
fios de ovos and capas de ovos.
For a more refined and
sophisticated taste large quantities of almonds were added, these were the
‘Queijinhos de amêndoa’ moulded into any shape you desired.
With this as a base or
the ‘core’, new recipes were devised with great success. These new culinary
ideas were a breath of fresh air that blew through all the Convents and Abbeys in
Portugal.
In Goa our very
Bebimca, the addition of coconut juice to the ‘core’ produced an entirely new
flavour.
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